Food: Cockliffe Country House Hotel Taster Menu

I was really looking forward to the trying the Taster at Cockliffe Country House after having dined there previously and been impressed with the interesting combinations they’d offered on the menu.

On my previous visit some of it worked, some of it had been a bit random, but I love it when a chef is brave enough to try something new or mix contrasting flavours. A little bit like when you watch Masterchef and you get someone putting liquid nitrogen in a dish. You want them to do better than someone serving up a trifle.

Cockliffe House itself is a pretty impressive building. The stunning 17th century property is set within three acres of mature gardens within a private wood close to Papplewick, making it a great spot for weddings. As you follow the sign posts, you do begin to wonder if you’ve gone the right way when you leave Burntstump Hill, particularly in the dark it seems you’ve definitely left the beaten track, yet you’re really only 7 miles from the centre of Nottingham.

First impressions when we entered the building left a little to be desired. We booked the table, we were on time and yet threre was no one on reception to meet us. We waited for a good five minutes before a lady came out to greet us. She seated us in the bar area and took our drink order. A huge Budha head sits in the fireplace of the modern bar and is indicative of the shabby chic decor throughout.

We are led to our table, which personally I felt was the best in the dining room and sits in a bay with a fantastic view overlooking the gardens. It’s a good few weeks since we visited so I can only imagine the grounds have been glorious in the recent warm weather.

The five course taster menu began with Wild Mushroom Cappuccino. Served in a cup and saucer this course started of light and the frothy top backed up that impression but was quite rich and earthy also a little too heavy on the truffle oil for my pallet so thankfully there wasn’t too much of it as it filled me up too much considering there was another four courses.

The second course was was Pan seared Scallops, spiced cauliflower purée and black pudding Bon Bon. This course was never going to be a winner with me as I’m not a fan of either, having said that I’m always keen to be proven wrong. It was beautifully presented but just not my cup of tea.

The next course should have been Ham hock and black sticks blue cheese terrine and homemade piccalilli. We were told they were out of Ham hock and instead we were randomly bought a version of ham, egg and peas! Slices of ham held garden peas. A poached egg was placed to the side. The chutney was there and it was also served with a side salad and toasted bread. As a course it didn’t work but then I guess it was a last minute replacement.

The next course was Lime and basil sorbet. Not a combination you expect, or one I’d tried before but this tasty refreshing sorbet was a delicious palate cleanser.

The main course was Duo of lamb, herb crust dauphinoise potato, bean panache and sherry jus. Again beautifully presented and individually each item on the plate was delicious, however, together I found it fairly filling. There was a small dish of shepherds pie as well as the helping of cooked lamb, either would have been enough. The dauphinoise potato was lovely and creamy and seasoned. The dish was also served with carrots, broccoli, cauliflower and asparagus wrapped in pancetta.

I was pretty uncomfortably full now but I rarely turn down a pudding so was still looking forward to the Assiette of desserts. I certainly wasn’t disappointed.

Gorgeous smooth and creamy Panacotta was served with raspberries, there was delicious chocolate brownie with strawberries and melted chocolate and a small pot of perfect crumble. I’d happily have any one of those puddings again.

I was absolutely full at the end of the meal. Of course everyone enjoys different amounts of food so it’s always hard to please everyone. For me, with a few tweaks it could have been a perfect menu in a great setting.

Tanya Raybould