When hearing about food fads you might have come across something called ‘Umami’ but what is it? To explain it simply, it is the Fifth Taste.
Only recently recognised by Western scientists as one of the five basic tastes, together with sweet, sour, bitter and salty, studies confirm that our mouths contain taste receptors for the moorish savoury taste.
Escoffier, the legendary 19th-Century French Chef who invented veal stock, felt sure that the fifth taste was the secret of his success – combining umami with salty, sour, sweet and bitter tastes but nobody in those days was prepared to listen. He did not however know the chemical source of this unique quality.
The name derives from Japan and translates as ‘pleasant savoury taste’ Umai meaning delicious or pleasant & mi meaning taste. Coined in 1908 by a chemist at Tokyo University, Kikuane Ikeda. He pinpointed glutamate, an amino acid as the source, then learned how to produce it in industrial quantities and patented the notorious flavour enhancer MSG (Monosodium Glutamate).
The umami taste is common to foods that contain high levels of L-glutamate, IMP and GMP, quintessential examples of something umami tasting is a broth or a soup, something that releases amino acids by slow cooking or hanging something out until it is a little desiccated, maybe even moulded slightly, like a good expensive steak. Fermentation also releases umami, the yeasts on a ripe piece of fruit have a degree of umami, soy sauce, cheese – particularly Parmesan, cured meats have it by the bucket load, most notably fish, shellfish, also mushrooms and vegetables (such as ripe tomatoes, Chinese cabbage, spinach, asparagus, celery etc.) also green tea. Umami is said to be the reason, why after eating Chinese and many South East Asian foods, we immediately want more.
Demand for umami has grown by 25 per cent over the last couple of years, partly down to celebrity endorsements from chefs like Jamie Oliver and Nigel Slater. There is now even a new cooking ingredient; described as a taste bomb, Taste No 5 Umami paste is made entirely from natural ingredients created by author and London restaurateur Laura Santini. Waitrose, Sainsburys and Morrisons stock their own versions whilst Tesco even stocks an umami powder.
Dishes based on umami are now regularly served in restaurants. There is an umami restaurant in Kensington and the States have a chain of umami burger restaurants. Massimo Bottura, whose restaurant Modena is one of the best in the world, served his dish ‘Five ages of Parmigiano Reggiano’ back in 1995, more recently stating that Parmesan is probably the most umami ingredient. Nottingham’s own two Michelin starred Sat Bains uses the umami taste when explaining the flavours of different dishes at his restaurant. In his book ‘Too many Chiefs only one Indian’ recipes indicate which are high in umami content. He states “We’ve tried to play with the salt and fat levels to give something that has some health benefits. Umami is a great tool for the modern kitchen. It has a hit which is filling and gives you a sense of ‘fatness’ so you can reduce your fat content and salt content”
Research shows that groups, such as the elderly, may even benefit from the umami taste because their taste and smell sensitivity is impaired by age and medicine. The loss of taste and smell can contribute to poor nutrition, increasing their risk of disease. The British Geriatric Society is even looking into increasing umami content in hospital food to make it more appealing.
This year though is predicted to see sour take the throne, with the taste predicted to dominate in every aspect of the menu, from appetisers and mains to drinks and dessert. Many Filipino dishes have strong sour flavours and so the cuisine is set to be creating a buzz internationally.
By Tanya Raybould
Food Editor
@foodnottingham
@tanyalouiseray
Sources- Umami – Wikipedia, en.wikipedia.ord/wiki/Umami, Sat Bains – Too many Chiefs only one Indian, www.umamiburger.com, How umami is starting to make an impact in the UK -www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/food/article-2728392/flavour, Umami: why the fifth taste is so important-www.theguardian.com>Lifestyle>Food & Drink, Umami: ‘I tried it and now I want more, and more – www.telegraph.co.uk > Food and Drink, Umami Information Centre – www.umamiinfo.com
